We are proud to share a piece of Avena Carpets’ rich heritage — a full reprint of an original article first published in Carpet Review Weekly on November 25th, 1976.

Titled “Dealing up-market with a winning hand,” this manufacturer profile tells the inspiring story of our founder, J. Michael Oates, and his bold decision to launch Avena Carpets in the midst of a challenging period for the British carpet industry. While many companies were scaling back, Michael took a risk — driven by experience, passion, and a belief in quality — to create a company that specialised in bespoke Wilton and Brussels carpets for the high-end market.

The article captures the energy and ambition of Avena’s early days: from acquiring equipment and premises, to forming a dedicated workforce with shared ownership, to producing custom carpets for leading designers and interior specialists. It also highlights our early collaborations with iconic names like David Hicks, and the unique ‘specials’ service that became central to Avena’s brand.

More than just a snapshot in time, this article reflects the values that continue to guide Avena today: craftsmanship, client focus, innovation, and resilience. We hope you enjoy this journey into our origin story — a reminder of where we started and the vision that still drives us forward.

MANUFACTURER PROFILE
Dealing up-market with a winning hand

While others are opting out, one new company, Avena Carpets, has made a concerted push into the up-market area and in a relatively short time has become a thriving Wilton manufacturer.

It makes a refreshing change to meet a man with the courage of his convictions. The man is J Michael Oates who, at the beginning of this year, was brave enough to establish a new carpet manufacturing company, Avena Carpets Ltd of Denholme Gate, Bradford, to service the high-quality, top market area.

With the industry beset by news of closures, short-time working and tight budgets, to counter the vagaries of today’s economy, Michael Oates has certainly opted to swim against the tide.

For him the risks are considerable but, seemingly, justified. He has knowledge and experience of the industry, invaluable for the formation of a company like Avena, which he gained through some 20 or so years with Crossley. A brief synopsis of his career to date will establish his background.

History
He joined Crossleys as a management trainee and did his stint in practically every department from spinning and weaving to research and development, finishing his tour in work-study applications.

On progressing to the figured Wilton department he was promoted to overall shed manager, acting also as a liaison officer between production and management. He had, during this time, gained considerable experience in production and operating techniques, which were called upon specifically by the company when it decided to establish a Canadian ‘Karaloc’ production unit.

In 1964, Michael Oates went to Truro, Nova Scotia, Canada, where the joint Crossley-Karastan (USA) venture set up its production plant. Responsibility for this was handled jointly by Don McLeod who dealt with the administration while Michael Oates organised the complete production and technical side. It took seven months to design the technical layout, set up the looms and finally, ahead of schedule, go on stream with the first Canadian ‘Karaloc’ carpet. During the process Michael Oates had turned his hand to virtually everything from welding to weaving!

On his return to Halifax and the figured Wilton department, Michael Oates was also made responsible for the spool Axminster section. In addition he became involved in technical research and development. Early in 1969, he became product development manager, retaining this responsibility until he left Crossleys last year.

Avena’s conception
It was during the last two or so years at Crossleys that he contemplated a possible move but in what direction was crystallised by the company itself.

Michael Oates heard unofficially that the figured Wilton department was to close. For a large company like Crossley its existence was obviously uneconomic, however, he felt that a small independent unit could make it pay its way, servicing a now recognisable ‘special’ area.

He took advice from an accountant about forming such a business and to its viability. The crunch point was considered to be production of some 300 lin yd of carpet a week. On this the company could survive.

The idea and its challenge appealed to him and so, indirectly, through his accountant, he wrote to Crossley stating a small group were interested in buying six of the figured Wilton department’s looms, as well as other equipment. The timing of the approach was critical for rumours were going round that the Northern Carpet Trades Union was considering forming a syndicate to buy the plant.

Anxious to develop Avena, he then personally approached the management and asked for an option on the plant and equipment; this was agreed privately.

With this agreement, the major hurdle was to be overcome. He had to finance the operation, and after considerable self-sacrifice and efforts in finding backers, the £20,000 or so capital for Avena was forthcoming. The opportunity had become a reality.

In retrospect Michael Oates has no doubts at all about this move — he had opted out of a secure position with a guaranteed pension to gamble his own and his family’s future on an enterprise fraught with many difficulties.

Establishment
Premises were found at an old tannery on the Halifax to Keighley Road. The 4,000 sq ft available has since made room for an office and soon, a small showroom; a weaving shed and adjoining workshop are on the ground floor. Upstairs is housed a winding section, card and yarn storage, inspection and rolling areas as well as hatches cut through the floor for beaming into the looms below. There are five of these now in operation, the sixth is to be set up shortly.

Staff
For staff recruitment, Michael approached the Union for help. This they gave and seven men were offered not only a job, but a shareholding in the company. Michael Oates holds a 52 per cent interest, the remaining shares are divided between the men and one or two outside people — so all have an active interest in its running and its success.

Avena was born, and its house was put in order gradually over the months. After necessary cleaning-up and conversion operations at the premises, equipment was set up and made ready, and what were empty premises became a small but efficient plant, ready for production by the end of February.

In the interim, as part of his negotiations with Crossley, Michael had taken over the complete Jacquard print-out card system so Avena had the basis of established ranges from which to work.

Comments Michael, ‘Crossley has been extremely helpful to us. The company advised its clients that Avena was continuing to operate what was until recently its own narrow width and Brussels weave service. This has been invaluable. The company still refers clients and enquiries to us.

‘What proved to be particularly fortunate was the David Hicks connection with Crossley for some of his exclusive designs; we are now handling these for him.

‘Of course, we also notified clients and possible interested parties with a mailing shot.’

Personal service
Apart from Crossleys’ valuable assistance Michael is busy, personally, in establishing Avena’s reputation in all areas.

His company’s exclusive service for specials is being offered to all interior designers, architects and specifiers. They include Bosanquet Ives; Sibyl Colefax and John Fowler; George Spence; David Hicks and so on.

Its ‘specials’ service, custom made for clients, stipulates no minimum yardages, a great incentive for some designers and for Avena, a chance to satisfy a client on a small order basis which usually leads to further, more substantial, orders.

Says Michael: ‘We produce custom-made specials for specialist businesses, who in turn offer a very professional service to their clients. So, we in turn, must not let anyone down — if someone wants a one-off, we can and do produce it for them.’

Carpet production
The narrow width Brussels Wiltons (27in, 0.69m) are woven in two qualities: Super is made 11 rows to an inch, De Luxe is 13 rows to an inch. In addition, cut-pile qualities can be produced.

Avena also has its personal, three-frame Wilton range, ‘Keelham’ which comes in some five designs and in a tremendous permutation of colours.

This particular range is the result of help given to Avena by the IWS design studio which evolved the basic designs. In fact the IWS, during its initial year, has provided invaluable assistance in all areas.

Being small at the moment, a permanent design studio is not incorporated in the operation, but client-design needs can be catered for by a proficient team of freelance designers.

The pricing structure for Brussels Super is £9.90 for any measure over 45yd. For Brussels De Luxe it is £11. Under 45 yd Avena makes a charge of £2 for every yard, applicable to both qualities. Specials are costed accordingly.

All wool and raw materials are brought in when needed. Dyeing of pile yarn is subcontracted out and individual orders dyed-up and returned on cones, ready for bobbin winding.

Avena also has to subcontract out its steaming and finishing processes, but the service received is such that very few hold-ups occur, so the company is happy with the arrangement for the time being.

Since March, when the looms came into full production, business has been increasing steadily to such an extent that the set 300 linear yd a week target has been reached.

Comments Michael Oates, ‘If we keep on being as busy as we are at the moment we shall have to increase our work force!’

Already after only nine months production Avena could use more space. Says Michael, ‘Because of the layout with looms on the ground floor, we have to bring each piece upstairs for inspection, then down again for finishing. This is awkward and time consuming and means we are doubling up on work.

‘To speed up the inspection and finishing we eventually want to extend the ground floor outwards taking in the existing workshop area and some of the yard… But it is early days still for Avena, and we shall have to see how things continue before committing ourselves to more capital outlay.’

The ends certainly now seem to have justified the means for Michael when he personally gambled on Avena’s success.

If business continues at its present rate to the end of the year, Avena should be firmly set towards a healthy future.

Reprinted from CARPET REVIEW WEEKLY, NOVEMBER 25th 1976